The Cambodiana, Phnom Penh

It turns out that the ‘rabbit hole’ is a hot, sticky, polluted, dusty place where rain can last all day in miserable and apologetic showers closely resembling the grey skies I though I’d left back in England. However, as with all ‘good’ weather (in the sense that it’s sufficiently variable to be the topic of English conversation) it’s now raining with all the ferocity of a true South East Asian thunderstorm. The Mekong river is in full flow at this time of year towards the end of the wet season and the swollen muddy waters are rushing past sweeping away trees like matchsticks.

Luckily, Maghan, Claire, Nono, Sarah and I have taken a break from playing the part of committed, hard working volunteers and we’re indulging ourselves on our last day of freedom before training begins properly. We’ve come to a four star hotel (five start being beyond the reach of Phnom Penh) to use the pool and enjoy the last throws of “being skanks” – ie. wearing very few clothes and worrying about where the tan lines are developing. Given that exposing your shoulders or knees is considered bad form in all the places we’ll be working, it’s best we get this last bit of western frivolity out of our systems now.

Thus far on the training we’ve had the security briefing in which we were told, word for word, “the police are the last people you want to go to if you get in trouble.” Notorious for their ability to extort money from anyone for anything, the police are not the people to ask directions from in Cambodia. Training also briefed us on how few rules VSO actually has about their volunteers’ safety. While this is not a bad reflection on VSO, it’s more a reflection of the trust they have in us to use our common sense. No one can stop us walking around Phnom Penh in the middle of the night through the most dangerous neighbourhoods and it would be over-protective of VSO to impose such restrictions. However, anyone who would think it’s a good idea to take such a stroll probably wouldn’t have made it on to VSO as a volunteer anyway since intelligence is valued here...

Nevertheless, the one strong warning we were given is that there are only 3 doctors in the whole of Cambodia which VSO would suggest we use if we’re ill. This means that for anything more than a minor sniffle, volunteers should make the journey to Phnom Penh or Siem Riep even if this means a 12 hours bus ride with dengue fever.

So, while I may be indulging in a little luxury now, I’m pretty certain the rough times are going to be just round the corner so don’t judge me too harshly for using the swimming pool just yet.